I would suggest a clean re-installation of the audio drivers. Ensure to check the box “Delete driver software for this device”. Restart the computer. Then check for the Audio drivers in Control Panel -> Add or Remove programs, possibly Realtek might be mentioned, uninstall the driver.
If you find that one pair of speaker wires or one speaker causes the amp to go into protect, disconnect all speakers from the other end of the wires and separate the wires so they can't touch. If the amp still goes into protect, you have a bad speaker wire or the wire is shorted to chassis ground.
Turn on the stereo system and make sure the balance is set to the middle position. If the speaker still doesn't work then the problem is somewhere between the amplifier and the speaker itself. It could be the speaker wire, any of the wiring connections or a bad speaker. Turn off the stereo system.
Because there is only one speaker on the bottom of every single iPhone ever made. There is a speaker, and a microphone in the bottom. The second speaker is the earpiece speaker. The phone creates a stereo playback effect by using that single bottom speaker and the single earpiece speaker.
To fix this, right-click the speaker icon in the Windows taskbar and choose Sounds to enter the audio preferences. Under the Playback tab, find the device you want to use—if you don't see it, try right-clicking and checking Show Disabled Devices—then select the output device and click the Set Default button.
A typical maintenance job on an old Hifi amp would involve the following:
- Safety First: Unplug the amp from the mains before removing the cover!
- Dust: Use a brush and a vacuum cleaner to remove dust.
- Crackles, Pops, an Intermittents: Clean switches and pots with a good contact cleaner.
Tech labor is typically $50-100 an hour, plus cost of parts. This is why some techs will turn down certain 'cheap amps' mainly because it's not worth it to the customer, and some may think it's unfair, or like they're being ripped off, if they need to pay $200 for a repair on an amp they paid $300 for.
In a decent amp, they tend to last many thousands of hours, therefore providing years of use, but they do fail over time.
If you don't know any local repair shop or you don't know which repair shop is reliable, call all of the local car audio shops in the area and ask them who they'd recommend to have an amp repaired. If you find that most shops send their work to one particular repair shop, that shop likely does quality work.
Use a voltmeter and check the voltage between the remote terminal of the amplifier and ground. It should be around 12 volts. If it isn't change the head unit to the radio and see if it has voltage then. If it does you probably have the power antenna only lead connected instead of the remote turn on lead.
Something getting way too hot. Too much current flowing somewhere in the amp. The usual cause of this is too little speaker impedance. If you have a speaker cabinet that is wired for 4 ohms and you have it plugged into the 16 ohm speaker out and crank the volume, you WILL let out the magic smoke.
Problem: Amplifier goes into protect. Solution: This can be caused by too low of an impedance from the way the speakers are wired, and sometimes a poor charging system (if the amp goes into protect when the volume is turned up). That's the most common cause for an amplifier to go into protection.
Ensure the subwoofer is connected to the MIX or SUB output on the stereo system or TV. Ensure the power cord of the subwoofer is connected to a working AC outlet. IMPORTANT: Certain speaker settings may disable the subwoofer. Trying a different speaker setting may resolve the issue.
The most common cause of speaker failure is short-circuiting. A short circuit in the wires providing the signal will prevent the signal from ever reaching the subwoofer. A short circuit at the terminals on the subwoofer will also prevent electrical current and signal from reaching the subwoofer.
Turn on the amp to see if the fuse blows again.Then, turn on the amp. The amp will lose power right after that. If the fuse blows before you turn on the amp, the problem may be in the electrical circuit. This could mean your car or home wiring is broken or getting too much power.
How To Reset a Car Amp Out Of Protection Mode
- Ensure that the car amp is on.
- Head over to the trunk and unscrew the remote and power wire terminals.
- Remove both wires and turn off the cars ignition.
- Allow around 30 seconds for the car amp to reset out of protect mode and then reconnect them. back.
Insert the Test CD into the source unit. With the A.C. Voltmeter set to ~ AC VOLTS, in a range of 10 to 100 Volts, connect the voltmeter (+) test lead to a single channel of the amplifier (+) output. Connect the voltmeter (-) test lead to the same amplifier channel's (-) terminal.
Troubleshooting Your SubwooferNo Output Check that all components are plugged in and turned on. Check all interconnecting cables. Check that the subwoofer is connected to the sub out (or other appropriate output) on the receiver/processor/amplifier. Check that subwoofer output is enabled in the receiver/processor's
a bad ground (or no ground) would prevent an amplifier from turning on. not connecting a 12v+ remote turn on wire, would too, prevent an amplifier from turning on. a blown fuse from a spark will prevent an amplifier from turning on. just a personal note: take off the ground (from the battery) first before installation.
Try checking the battery of the bass, a lot of basses have them on the back. They're quite easy to change. Just unscrew the back, change the batteries, screw the lid and ta da, your done. Edit: On second thought, if that doesn't work check the input jack on your bass, unscrew the lid and take it out a bit.
To fix your blown subwoofer you'll need to take it out of your car, fix or replace any damaged parts, and glue/wire it back together. This process can range from easy to very difficult, depending on the problem.
Set your multimeter to DC resistance and then put the positive lead from the DMM on the positive coil input then likewise for the negatives. If the sub is a DVC 4 Ohm sub then each coil, when measured, should read close to or at 4 Ohms. If a 2 Ohm driver then close to 2 Ohms.
